Bush taxi.
We plan to spend several days at Tammy's house in Tsevie, and since grocery shopping is limited there, Tammy and I walk to find a supermarket for olive oil, ground coffee, and jam. However, she had forgotten that supermarkets in Togo close from noon to 3 pm everyday, because that's siesta time. So we found a small market instead, then headed to the tro-tro station.
Tammy decided on a "bush taxi" for the 22 mile trip to Tsevie.
What's a bush taxi? Well, it's the lowliest form of a tro-tro. They are the most beat up vehicles, and they cram the most people in them. As I mentioned before, in Togo there is no rule as to how many people they can stuff into a vehicle.
Tammy said "it's an initiation rite, all parents of Togo Peace Corps Volunteers have to ride in a bush taxi at least once." We say, "oh" and go along with her plan, not knowing what we are getting ourselves into.
We were stuffed four people across in a seat, and flat bench seats were filled with people facing us. Our luggage was stuffed in back and the hatch tied with old rags. The side door was held closed with a rope. We took off, but the apprentice hung out the door and kept hawking "Tsevie!" to get more riders, although it seemed impossible to stuff one more bit of human flesh in that bush taxi. Of course the traffic was as crazy as usual. The often-used brakes squealed and barely stopped the taxi. The windshield was broken in lots of places. Once the taxi slowed to a stop in front of a stand with a bunch of bottles on it, and the apprentice placed a funnel made from a plastic bottle into the gas tank - then poured petrol from a bottle into the tank.
petrol and funnel for the gas tank
close-up
Finally we got to Tsevie (it took about an hour to go 22 miles) and popped out of that bush taxi quite gratefully, glad to be alive. Not in the mood for another taxi, we walked to Tammy's place even though it was several blocks from the station. Long, hot blocks on the red, clay-like dirt streets, laden with our suitcases.
We arrived at 4 pm, having left Accra at 8:30 am. (It's about 107 miles from Accra to Tsevie.) We were very tired, but very happy to finally be somewhere comfortable and homey!
Luckily Tammy had enough energy to make us a meal and get us some drinks. She is a great cook! She made us panini-style sandwiches and a green salad. We settled in to spend an evening of eating, drinking, talking, and watching DVDs on her TV.
Here we at Tammy's, posing with the Lyons Redstone Review (a Lyons tradition).
We spent a lot of time in her hammock! It was cooler outside than inside her house.
John and Tammy at the gate to her "complex". Her house and yard is surrounded by a wall, with a gate that is securely locked. This is a common practice in cities in Togo. You thus have a secure courtyard and house, rather than just a locked house the way we do in the US.
The street outside Tammy's complex.
Another view of the street outside Tammy's complex.
Next: To the market in Tsevie.
Tammy decided on a "bush taxi" for the 22 mile trip to Tsevie.
What's a bush taxi? Well, it's the lowliest form of a tro-tro. They are the most beat up vehicles, and they cram the most people in them. As I mentioned before, in Togo there is no rule as to how many people they can stuff into a vehicle.
Tammy said "it's an initiation rite, all parents of Togo Peace Corps Volunteers have to ride in a bush taxi at least once." We say, "oh" and go along with her plan, not knowing what we are getting ourselves into.
We were stuffed four people across in a seat, and flat bench seats were filled with people facing us. Our luggage was stuffed in back and the hatch tied with old rags. The side door was held closed with a rope. We took off, but the apprentice hung out the door and kept hawking "Tsevie!" to get more riders, although it seemed impossible to stuff one more bit of human flesh in that bush taxi. Of course the traffic was as crazy as usual. The often-used brakes squealed and barely stopped the taxi. The windshield was broken in lots of places. Once the taxi slowed to a stop in front of a stand with a bunch of bottles on it, and the apprentice placed a funnel made from a plastic bottle into the gas tank - then poured petrol from a bottle into the tank.
petrol and funnel for the gas tank
close-up
Finally we got to Tsevie (it took about an hour to go 22 miles) and popped out of that bush taxi quite gratefully, glad to be alive. Not in the mood for another taxi, we walked to Tammy's place even though it was several blocks from the station. Long, hot blocks on the red, clay-like dirt streets, laden with our suitcases.
We arrived at 4 pm, having left Accra at 8:30 am. (It's about 107 miles from Accra to Tsevie.) We were very tired, but very happy to finally be somewhere comfortable and homey!
Luckily Tammy had enough energy to make us a meal and get us some drinks. She is a great cook! She made us panini-style sandwiches and a green salad. We settled in to spend an evening of eating, drinking, talking, and watching DVDs on her TV.
Here we at Tammy's, posing with the Lyons Redstone Review (a Lyons tradition).
We spent a lot of time in her hammock! It was cooler outside than inside her house.
John and Tammy at the gate to her "complex". Her house and yard is surrounded by a wall, with a gate that is securely locked. This is a common practice in cities in Togo. You thus have a secure courtyard and house, rather than just a locked house the way we do in the US.
The street outside Tammy's complex.
Another view of the street outside Tammy's complex.
Next: To the market in Tsevie.
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